The collected works of zackwatt - Page 2

So, I guess technically, if used in the correct amounts, it should not have any "bleaching" effect on the plastic.

That sounds great! But, I might need help with my delusion math.

Also, I hope Home Depot/Lowes has full sized UV florescent tubes.

Just to give you an idea of what I am talking about...

Here is the old Indigo2 case, with a brand new, just pulled from the plastic, faceplate. Assuming it is not a variance in the plastic because of a different batch, the case has a definite yellow "tinge" to it making it appear darker. The pic really doesn't do it justice, it is a BIG difference. It makes the case look old and tired.

I went to Lowes and got some supplies today. I could not find anything large enough to set the Indigo case flat, so it looks like upright is my only option. I can also monitor the change better by only submerging half the case at a time. I plan on lining the inside with foil to reflect the light every way. These same lights will take the plant type UV bulb, I wonder how that would do? If it would be too intense?

If I want more "intense" UV rays, I can just upgrade the light bulbs to the type that are used to grow plants.

With a colored piece like this, it is all about slow, steady, and controlled environment...

I was going to post that, but I was interested in what people had to say...

I guess its ok...

What do you think?

I'll try to run it off, but Zazzle.com (where I made it) does not print copyrighted logos.

They turned down my Nintendo64 mug.

Hopefully, this is too obscure for them to catch.

If they do, I might try to argue that SGI is outta business.

Can some one make a large high-res version of this logo?

I'm thinking 900x900...



Thanks.

Thanks ajerimez!

I have PhotoShop, so no problem.

I love the PostScript file, I discovered those last night when I was downloading the SGI logos. It is great to specify the resolution.

Is there anyway to specify the color, because when I use the fill bucket, it fills the edge gradient and makes it look jagged/pixelated.

The mug design I posted is both sides of the same mug.

If Zazzle accepts the design, then we could possibly do any design you want, because you can run off a single mug.

The countdown has begun!

49 liters of water, to 1 liter of 50% Hydrogen Peroxide, and one scoop of OxyClean.

This industrial bulk chemical place down the street.

And this stuff is mean too...

It was $23.00 for a gallon. Not real cheap, but it will go along way.

Three (3) Hour Progress Report:

It has only been three hours, and the results so far are AMAZING!

Left Half Treated

Left Half Treated

Top Half Treated & Compared to Brand New Face Plate

Top Half Treated & Compared to Brand New Face Plate


It's not quite there yet, but it's damn close. What an improvement!

The texture has not changed in anyway.

I am not sure what you mean when you say "prior shine", because I would call that a side effect of aging. Think how dull and flat leather is when it's new, but it becomes shiny when it is old, dirty and worn. The brand new piece (face plate) is very flat, almost "powdery" finish. This process has restored that look. It looks proper, not dried out or damaged. I am about the most OCD, nitpicky person when it comes to perfection, and this gets my seal of approval!

I did not take any steps to prevent water from getting behind the metal shielding. This is my test piece, so I was going to see if I could mess it up. It has been completely unaffected from the process, despite Hydrogen Peroxide being an oxidizer. I can just blow excess water out with an air hose.

What did oxidize, were the two metal clips that lock the case down. Not badly, but I would remove those before doing a good case.

I am now seeing what happens if I leave it in too long. So far, it still looks great. I don't know if the solution has become ineffective or if there is nothing else on the case to react with. Either way, I am coming up on 6 hours and it is pretty much perfect.

I am going to pull it out in a little while and see if there are any side effects after it dries over night.

Are you talking about your Apple? or have you started on an SGI machine?

Well its done.





Comparison shot with the new face plate before treatment.


Just to see what happens, I took a broken bottom piece and threw it in and went to bed. It was in the solution for about 12 hours. It appears to be unharmed. Perhaps the solution was weakened, or it only reacts with the yellow film.


My next project:

It is in the solution now.

I placed an order for it today, so in the next few days, we'll see if the design gets approved.

Just as I thought, they denied it....

Really? How is the quality?

Very Cool. The 90s were so exciting as technology got infinitely better every year.

I thought "Sun" connectors won't work?

They are visually the same, but not interchangeable...

Well, it's been just over a year since I joined this wonderful forum. I thought I would step back and look at all I have acquired in the last year.

Wow, I am obsessive...



The only machine not pictured is a maxed out Indigo1, that I have never received.

I paid for it, but I guess the guy ran off with my money.

Yes, and this is only the beginning...

Get everything working, loaded with software, networked together and I will have my very own SGI Museum!

It is a Presenter 1280.

I have the adapter and cable to use it on an Octane. I have the adapter for the O2, I am just missing a cable. I borrowed one from someone I know, and tested it on the O2, and it looks amazing! It works a lot better on the O2. I just gotta find a cable now.

This is how I plan to have the O2 set up once I get the right cable:

Thanks man!

I am pretty picky. I actually want better ones then these right now. I will find them sooner or later.

Thanks Master Roshi...

UPDATE...

After about a month in the solution, I have some impressive results. Some good, some bad...

The good news is that the yellowing has been almost 100% knocked out, the bad-"ish" news is the plastic has definitely taken on a "bleached" appearance.

As you can see from the pics, the final product is considerably lighter then a normal perfect condition keyboard.

My conclusion is that it is an effect of the sun damage, because the bottom, unaffected from the sun, still retains the original darker gray color.

So, the good news is that the solution only bleaches out the yellow portion, and does not bleach out undamaged plastics.

Here are the pics:

Very, Very Minor.

But, I never eyed it very well before starting.

It is a bit thinner, but nothing shocking.

Yea, both the top and the bottom were equally exposed. Only the sun damaged parts "bleached out". The bottom label was not even effected. So, maybe the sun bleaches the plastic as it turns it yellow. I don't know about dye, I really don't think that is something that would work well with this granite color.

Very Nice!

Just got these in the mail a few minutes ago.

They are pretty dirty, but nothing a little elbow grease won't fix.

Overall, their condition is almost perfect!

No kidding!

I fixed it...

That Indigo2 skin is awesome!

My findings were the process removed the yellow caused by the sun, if the plastic was also bleached from the sun, you will end up with a lighter piece. My keyboard was lighter where the sun damaged it, and the same, unchanged OEM color where the sun did not damage it.

Also, My retrobright process did not bleach the teal Indigo case at all, it only brought out the strong original color.

Very Cool!