Hardware For Sale/Trade

josehill writes:
> That enclosure looks minty fresh! Did you do anything specific to polish it?

I could have, but at the time I hadn't yet looked into the relevant techniques, so after discussions with the buyer
we decided to leave it for him to investigate. I did of course do my usual mega cleaning, so it was utterly dust-
free if nothing else.

These days I'd T-cut the sucker which would bring it up peachy. Here's some contrast pics I took a few weeks ago,
in this case testing the results of using T-cut on some really nasty O2 top lids (and thus the light scratching on the
O2+ would be trivial to deal with):

System 1: BEFORE / AFTER
System 2: BEFORE / AFTER
System 3: BEFORE / AFTER

Being able to tidy up badly scratched lids in this way is very useful for commercial sales. Makes them look at least
reasonably presentable. For hobbyist sales, it means minor marks can be completely removed, though sometimes
I obtain lids that are mint anyway (sold my last of those though a few weeks ago though).

Infact, I now have lots of O2s with no lids. :\ Anyone want a cheap O2 sans lid, etc.?


Btw, the buyer of the O2+ was pretty happy, to put it mildly:



Makes a big difference to motivation, etc. getting replies like that.

Ian.

PS. Nobody want my cheap 320 or Octane then?

One word describes the service you provided: EXCELLENCE.

2nded. Proximity to Ian's QoS is near reason enough to move to Scotland. The packaging of the CDs I ordered from him could have survived WWIII.

Btw, what is a T-cut? I have a few skins that are little beat-up and I'm interested in finding ways of cleaning them up.

directedition writes:
> 2nded. Proximity to Ian's QoS is near reason enough to move to Scotland. ...

Hehe, but then there's the weather...


> ... The packaging of the CDs I ordered from him could have survived WWIII.



Well, you know how it is, there's earthquakes, tidal waves, volcanoes, wars, floods, hurricanes, monsoons,
drout, famine, pestilence, asteroids, etc.... and then there's postal services, which makes all natural disasters
and man-made general hell seem like pleasant days out with tea & buscuits. :}


> Btw, what is a T-cut? ...

See:

http://www.carbasics.co.uk/what_is_t-cut.htm

It's designed for car paintwork but does wonders on other surfaces aswell.

I bought a 150g tube from B&Q , was about 5 UKP. Practice on some plastics you don't much care about first, get
used to it. Use it too much btw and it will discolour the surface.


> ... I have a few skins that are little beat-up and I'm interested in finding ways of cleaning them up.

It should work nicely. After I've used T-cut, I clean off the surface with antistatic foam cleanser.

I have a variety of solvents for removing other stains/marks, especially glue from stickers, security stickers,
marks left by knocks with other plastic surfaces, etc. Substances include label remover, WD40, Isopropanol,
tape head cleaner, Acetone and nail varnish remover. Depending on the nature of the offending grime, at
least one of these will work better than the others, though care is required with some of them as certain
plastics can react quickly (eg. Acetone can be nasty stuff, ditto isopropanol). Over time one gets a sense of
what is likely to work best in each case.

Ian.

PS. Some of the above solvents are toxic and damaging to skin, lungs, etc. Be careful if you use any of
these things. Well ventilated area essential.

mapesdhs wrote: PS. Nobody want my cheap 320 or Octane then?

Wouldn't a MAC G4 be quicker in every way?

indyman007 wrote: Wouldn't a MAC G4 be quicker in every way?

No, terminal velocity is about the same for everything.

indyman007 wrote: Wouldn't a MAC G4 be quicker in every way?

If you prefer Macs, why are you here?

Ah, now I understand, that's why the Octane I bought from you was so badly packaged (ie. wrecked) - you don't
like SGIs. Makes sense now...

Ian.

Hi Ian!

mapesdhs wrote: > Btw, what is a T-cut? ...

See:

http://www.carbasics.co.uk/what_is_t-cut.htm

It's designed for car paintwork but does wonders on other surfaces aswell.

I bought a 150g tube from B&Q , was about 5 UKP. Practice on some plastics you don't much care about first, get
used to it. Use it too much btw and it will discolour the surface.

[...]

PS. Some of the above solvents are toxic and damaging to skin, lungs, etc. Be careful if you use any of
these things. Well ventilated area essential.

I use a cleaning agent made for cleaning stainless steel in kitchens. It's an abrasive, fine powder ('white clay'), not toxic, doesn't dissolve anything. I got mine from one of those "eco" / "bio" shops.

It works best to remove scruffs: http://vdheijden-messerli.net/sgistuff/ ... .24-skins/

Just for kicks I give it a try on a pair of totally scratched O2s. Here's a photo after I treated the worst of the two: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=16721530&p=7305524#p7305524

As with any scraping agent: apply too much or too long and you will have no texture left. Also not really suitable to remove scratches deeper than the texture on the skins.

(does the abrasive powder you mention have a typical brand name or product name?)

That's very true, re doing it too much will leave a visible patch. Thus my suggestion of trying this stuff first on something
that doesn't matter so much, get used to how it works.

For deep scratches/marks, I found one way which works rather well, for O2/Octane skins anyway: use a box cutter
or Stanley knife to scrape away at the surface of the scratch, and then use T-cut. The results are surprising. Also,
O2/Octane skins are particularly prone to the kind of scuff mark which leaves a brighter-than-surroundings smear,
ie. not really a scratch as such. Lightly scraping away at the mark and then using T-cut normally makes such marks
vanish completely. This is what I did for the pictures shown earlier (the O2 top lids), works wonders.

Ian.

indyman007 wrote:

mapesdhs wrote: PS. Nobody want my cheap 320 or Octane then?

Wouldn't a MAC G4 be quicker in every way?

Or a single garbage Opteron against the G4 for that matter.

That's not really the point.

mapesdhs wrote:

indyman007 wrote: Wouldn't a MAC G4 be quicker in every way?

If you prefer Macs, why are you here?

Ah, now I understand, that's why the Octane I bought from you was so badly packaged (ie. wrecked) - you don't
like SGIs. Makes sense now...

Ian.

Uncalled for, but never mind. I do like SGIs, you should have made it clearer that you would pay for packing, you keep bringing this up, your the one with the degree, should of thought of that.

mapesdhs wrote: Ah, now I understand, that's why the Octane I bought from you was so badly packaged (ie. wrecked) - you don't
like SGIs. Makes sense now...

indyman007 wrote: Uncalled for, but never mind. I do like SGIs, you should have made it clearer that you would pay for packing, you keep bringing this up, your the one with the degree, should of thought of that.

Tit-for-tat, so now you're even. Let me remind both parties nekochan *isn't* the place for bitch-slapping contests - virtual or otherwise.

Take any further comments on the issue outside <or to PM>.

Will do.


More of an SGI orientated question, is any O2 system with an R12K processor considered an O2+?

indyman007 wrote: More of an SGI orientated question, is any O2 system with an R12K processor considered an O2+?

Technically, no; in literal terms, an O2+ is any O2 that has an 030-1327-002 motherboard, as that's the only real difference
between an older O2 and an O2+. However, lots of earlier O2s with normal skins were sold with 1327 boards.

One other thing, O2+ systems were normally sold with a DVDROM by default, whereas older units might have had a CDROM instead.

Ian.

mapesdhs wrote: (does the abrasive powder you mention have a typical brand name or product name?)

It's called First Stone: http://www.nettoyant-argile.com/